How to Safely Trap a Cat

1. Plan ahead when you trap.

* Rent/Buy a cat trap. Please see "Trap Resources" under the Feral Cat Center on this website.

* NEVER leave a trap unattended.

* Talk to neighbors and property owners. You will most likely come across both supportive and non-supportive comments regarding your TNR efforts. Do not trespass unless you have permission.

2. Call your veterinarian/low cost spay and neuter clinic.

* Establish how the veterinarian will accept feral cats. Many veterinarians will require an appointments. If you do schedule an appointment, make sure to call the clinic and alert them if you are unsuccessful in trapping and are unable to keep your appointment. If you trap more than one cat do not release the cat(s). Call your veterinarian at first opportunity and see if they will accept the cat, or check with other participating veterinarians in your area.

* It is very difficult to re-trap cats!

* Ask the vet to notch the cat's ear. This indicates the cat has been altered. This does not hurt the cat at all and is very important. It proves to municipal shelters and/or other property owners that the cats are indeed altered. A tipped ear may save a feral's life!

3. Put together needed trapping supplies.

In order to trap effectively you will need the following:

Humane trap(s)

• Cat Trap
• Can of tuna in oil, sardines in oil, or mackerel-these are the most enticing baits (do not use chicken bones or other bones, bones can be life threatening to cats)
• Can opener
• Newspaper and a dishtowel to line the bottom of each trap-do not use cardboard
• A large towel large enough to completely cover the entire trap on all sides
• Flashlight if you are trapping at dawn or dusk
• Pair of thick gloves
• Flyers or TNR literature to give to anyone who may question what you're doing
• First Aid Kit
• Antibacterial hand wipes
• Paper towels
• Pen
• Tracking sheet to record identification information
• Spoons
• Cat food and clean water to leave for any remaining cats
• Tools such as pliers, pocketknife and WD40 in case any traps are not functioning properly **It's best to test traps before you set them**

* NEVER set the trap unless you are nearby so that you can immediately cover the entire trap when a cat has been trapped. You must be far enough away not to frighten the cats but close enough to monitor the situation.

* Line the inside bottom of the trap with newspaper or a dishtowel. Place it so that it covers most of the trap bottom and the treadle. Leave the area near the back door unlined.

* Make sure the trap will be placed on a flat surface with no sticks or twigs near the door opening. Lay down newspaper inside.

* Make sure the back door of the trap is securely fastened.

* Cover the baited trap with a towel. This is imperative to ensure the cat doesn't bang itself against the trap. Never place the towel over the front door area as it could impede the door as it slides down during trapping.

* Set the trap.

* Place half a can of bait all the way in the back of the trap. You can put a few pieces of bait leading into the trap to coax the cat in.

5. As soon as the trap goes off, cover the entire trap immediately.

* When a trap goes off, the cat will panic. As you approach, the cat may struggle even more. Do not worry, this is normal. Quickly and quietly, go to the trap and cover the entire trap so the cat cannot see out. This will calm the cat considerably. Remove the trap from the area immediately.

* This step is very important, not only to protect the cat but also to ensure other cats do not see the cat thrashing around and become frightened of entering a trap themselves.

6. Trapping Tips.

* Don't be surprised if you trap a raccoon or a possum. Simply open the door, step back, and they will walk out quietly. Don't panic.

* Cover back and sides of trap, tucking towel under trap so cat can't reach in and grab bait from outside the trap.

* Always cover a trap with a towel once the cat is inside. Don't remove it for any reason. This helps the cat stay calm.

* Use smelly bait, mackeral, tuna, sardines or warm chicken. Never put a can inside a trap.

* For small or young cats make sure you have "hair triggered" the trap when setting, placing the bar as close to the trigger position as possible.

* Manual trigger method: manually set trap by tying a string to a PVC pipe, or piece of wood the same height as the height of the door opening. Prop open door with pipe or wood, hold string taught a few yards (up to forty, test before attempting) away, wait for cat(s) to enter and pull string HARD. This is a great way to catch 3 or 4 kittens all at once, pile up the bait and wait for them all to go in. Don't trap multiple adult cats this way as adults can injure one another if trapped together.

* You can often use previously trapped kittens to lure the mama cat into a trap and vice-versa. Place the trapped animal, still in its trap, up against the back door of another set trap. Use a sheet to cover both traps, luring the un-trapped family member into the set trap.

* If none of these tips work, please call the Animal Rescue and Care Network hotline at 408-846-8466.

7. Do not try to open the trap or transfer the cat into a carrier.

* It is important to maintain a "hands off" policy when dealing with feral cats. They are often frightened of humans and might claw or bite out of fear. Transferring also increases the risk of the cat escaping and then you will have a difficult time trying to trap it again.

8. Take the cat, in the covered trap, to a quiet, safe and warm indoor location until you can take it to the veterinarian.

* To protect the floor, lay out a large piece of plastic, such as a garbage sack, and put layers of newspaper on top of the plastic. Then put the trap on the newspapers, so if the cat needs to relieve itself, the newspapers will absorb urine, keeping the cat more comfortable.

* Do not let other animals have access to the trapped cat.

* You can slide open the back door just a sliver in order to put a shallow dish of water for the cat. A jar lid works nicely. It is important not to open the door more than an inch. Some ferals will charge the door and so if you open it too wide you could be injured and/or the cat could escape. Make sure you then latch the back door.

* A cat should NEVER spend more than 24 hours in a trap before surgery-the cats are often nervous and may not drink the water you provide. It is very important they do not become too dehydrated.

* It is best to fast the cat (no food) for 12 hours before surgery. If the cat has eaten, still take it in, but let the clinic know that the cat has eaten.

9. The night after surgery, keep cats in a safe and warm indoor location.

* Keep cats in their trap. Many caregivers like to give their clinic fresh towels when they drop the cats off and then request the staff put in a fresh towel after surgery to keep the cat comfortable. Give the cat food and water, again using shallow dishes and only opening the back door an inch to slide in the dishes. If the cat charges or you are nervous to open the back door, just spoon some soft cat food in through the metal grating, this provides enough moisture for an overnight stay.

10. Before releasing cat, check to insure it's bright-eyed.

* Never release a cat the day of their surgery.

* You should always hold on to female cats 2-3 days because their surgery is more invasive. If the next morning you find that the cat is still groggy or you notice bleeding, contact your vet before you release the cat. It is rare to experience these types of complications.

* If the cat is a female and it was pregnant, or it's cold outside, or if the cat needs additional care you may need to hold the cat for a longer period of time.

* The best information on fostering a feral cat can be found on the Neighborhood Cats website: http://www.neighborhoodcats.org/info/fostering.htm. You can foster a feral-totally hands-off! It takes proper set up. Do not attempt to transfer a feral cat before reading this important information.

* Make sure you have logged all your tracking information onto your feral cat-tracking sheet. Pictures are very helpful too, and you may want to keep copies of your vet records with your tracking sheet as well.

11. Release the cat back to the area where it was living before - DO NOT release the cat at another location.

* When releasing the cat, face the trap in the direction you want the cat to run (please point away from a busy road). Uncover the rear door area of the trap. Pull open rear door.

* Be careful not to release the cat close to a busy road or too close to a fence or structure it might be inclined to climb. Give it a clear and safe path for its "escape".

* If you are concerned that the cat cannot return to it is prior area, research relocation tactics BEFORE you try to relocate a cat. If you simply release a cat into an area it is not familiar with it will most likely run off and starve.

* For relocation information check out the article at http://www.alleycat.org/resources_care.html. It is CRITICAL that you confine the cat for 3-4 weeks at the new location before release. Relocation is a very time-consuming and detailed process, research relocation thoroughly before attempting.

12. A Note about Pregnant and Lactating Cats:

* Many cats, even if they are noticeably pregnant, can still be safely spayed. Yes, this does require aborting the unborn kittens. This is certainly not something anyone wants to do; however recognizing the risks to feral kittens living outdoors, and knowing how many cute cuddly, tame kittens are being euthanized every year in area shelters, we believe spaying is the best course of action in dealing with pregnant cats. Your veterinarian is best qualified to determine if it is safe for the cat to undergo surgery.

* You also must realize that every time you release a trapped cat, you lessen your chances of re-trapping that cat. If you decide to contain a pregnant feral cat in a cage until she has given birth and weaned the kittens, you are making a 6-9 week commitment. This also takes a considerable amount of set-up and maintenance work.

* If you know a lactating female cat has kittens over 4 weeks old, we recommend spaying the female. Of course, if you can get her kittens first and tame them, this is the best-case scenario. If your veterinarian informs you that a cat they spayed was lactating, it is probably best to release the cat that evening rather than holding her overnight. Ask your veterinarian for their recommendation. Female cats can go into heat while nursing kittens, so it's important that you do not wait too long to spay a female cat, whatever the case.

* If you have further questions, search Alley Cat Allies website www.alleycat.org for detailed information on dealing with these and other cat related issues.

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